Fuchun Ju

Soup dumplings are a good place to begin at Fuchun Ju on Beach Street. The handmade selection includes pork, crab-and-pork, shrimp-and-pork and beef, plus larger individual soup dumplings. The menu spells out something easy to miss: several of the seafood and vegetable-named variations also contain pork, including the crab, shrimp and corn soup dumplings.

There’s plenty beyond the steamers. Shanghai-style shumai contain sticky rice, pork, mushrooms and bamboo, while scallion dry noodles come with a fried egg. Braised pork with quail eggs and tofu with crabmeat are among the dishes to share. Choose a few together if you want a meal that goes beyond dumplings alone.