Holdfast Specialty Seafood Co.

Holdfast Specialty Seafood Co. is a seafood restaurant on Brighton Avenue, with a raw bar and a menu built around rolls, fried fish and chowder. The lobster rolls take an interesting turn: one uses cold lobster salad prepared in a bisque style, while the hot version comes with lobster bisque butter. Both are served on brown-butter buns with lime and chives.

You can keep the meal small with oysters or smoked fish toast, or order fish and chips and a beer. A crunchy shrimp roll adds ponzu aioli, Thai basil and serrano chile to the mix. There are alternatives for someone who doesn’t eat seafood, including a falafel sandwich with white bean hummus and a smash burger. The address is 164 Brighton Avenue, with direct online ordering available.